From dazzling colored diamonds and gems to an impressive selection of vintage jewels, Sotheby’s global jewelry teams look back on 2023 and a year of record breaking moments, stunning stones and sensational stories.
From heart-stopping, rare, one-off gems shattering auction records worldwide to familiar favourites from prestige houses, whichever way you cut 2023, there was a sparkle and sizzle in the jewelry market over the past twelve months across our international network. Here, our New York, Geneva and UK teams look back at the year and select their most appealing pieces from our sales calendar.
New York
"2023 saw a clear push for the rarest of gems and jewels. Colored stones and colored diamonds, most notably the Estrela de Fura 55 and the Eternal Pink, captivated clients around the world. Signed jewels by the legendary maisons continued to dazzle, as connoisseurs hunted particularly for iconic, vintage jewels that represented the best the great houses had to offer."
- Quig Bruning, Senior Vice President, Head of Jewelry, Americas & EMEA
Sotheby’s June Auction of Magnificent Jewels achieved a total of $95.9 million, the highest ever total for any jewelry auction ever staged at Sotheby’s New York. The sale was headlined by two outstanding gemstones – the Estrela de FURA: 55.22 and the Eternal Pink diamond, each of which achieved record-breaking prices.
The Estrela de FURA: 55.22, a 55.22-carat Mozambique ruby, sold for $34.8 million, establishing a new auction record for a ruby, as well as for any colored gemstone ever sold at auction. The Eternal Pink, a 10.57-carat Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond, also earned $34.8 million, a world auction record for a Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond, and a new price per carat record for the color grade. The auction notably featured a selection of jewels from Constance Prosser Mellon and Constance Barber Mellon, of which 100% sold, including a stunning 33.51-carat Burmese sapphire ring by Cartier, which soared to $3.3 million, after a prolonged five-minute battle between multiple bidders.
"Sotheby’s June auction of Magnificent Jewels achieved a total of $95.9 million, the highest ever total for any jewelry auction ever staged at Sotheby’s New York."
December in New York also featured a record-breaking jewel, this time in the form of a 133.03-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond, which became the largest diamond of the color grade ever to sell at auction, ultimately bringing $5.5 million. The auction also featured jewels from four legendary Hollywood icons – Richard “Red” Skelton, Frank Sinatra, Mary Tyler Moore and Tony Randall. Leading this group of distinguished jewels was an exceedingly rare Burmese pink sapphire and diamond ring of approximately 17.55 carats, which achieved a price of $1.1 million – over seven times its high estimate.
2023 Jewelry Highlights: New York
Launch Slideshow
Geneva
Sotheby’s Geneva achieved its highest sale total in over five years with its May auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, led by the ‘The Bulgari Laguna Blu’ which soared to CHF22,625,100 ($25,189,429). The stunning 11.16-carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond became not only the largest blue diamond ever to grace a Bulgari jewel, but also the most valuable gemstone mounted by Bulgari sold at auction. Its journey from a workshop in Rome to Sotheby’s Geneva saleroom reached a thrilling crescendo when it appeared on the red carpet at New York’s Met Gala, the centerpiece of a laurel wreath-inspired necklace – designed especially for the event by Bulgari – shining on the neck of actress Priyanka Chopra.
The life story of a jewel can be as compelling as the jewel itself. For instance, after months of highly anticipated previews across several continents, Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection returned to Geneva in November, where it realized a coveted “white glove” result, with 100% of lots sold.
"These extraordinary jewels, hidden in a bank vault for over seventy-five years, are bound together by beauty, rarity and illustrious provenances that include several European Royal and Imperial houses."
These extraordinary jewels, hidden in a bank vault for over seventy-five years, are bound together by beauty, rarity and illustrious provenances that include several European Royal and Imperial houses, all linked to the Hapsburg Dynasty. With over 200 items, from glorious tiaras dripping with natural pearls to emerald cuff links and Fabergé cigarette cases, the collection provides an extraordinary insight into the grandeur of Viennese court life at the turn of the century. Over 82% of lots surpassed their high estimates, driving the sale total to over CHF9.6 million ($11,057,356), over three times the presale estimate.
A highly rare and impressive Natural Pearl and Diamond Devant-de-Corsage, crafted by one of the finest Austrian court jewelers, Emil Biedermann, served as one of the auction’s many highlights, bringing CHF1.1 million ($1.15 million).
2023 Jewelry Highlights: Europe
Launch Slideshow
London
The 2023 London sales were some of the most successful in recent years, with hammer prices far exceeding estimates in many cases, and with both sales over 85% sold. There were highlights from private collections across the UK and Europe, and many pieces were highly sought after.
"Signed pieces performed well and noticeably, Art Deco styles stood out from the crowd."
Signed pieces performed well; noticeably, Art Deco styles stood out from the crowd. Pieces from the 1970s were back in vogue and simple gold jewelry was conspicuously popular.
As well as the London Fine Jewelry sales, we had pieces of jewelry in other signature sales and of course the highlight sale of the year was the Freddie Mercury sale where the late singer's jewelry was amongst the highest performing lots. It was a privilege to have the jewelry department represented on the rostrum for these white glove sales, where we sold 100% of the collection.
2023 Jewelry Highlights: UK
Launch Slideshow
